PVC Flicker Candles
Several people have emailed me recently for a how-to for my PVC flicker candles originally seen under my current projects page. I can’t take credit for ‘em, however, I decided to go ahead and list a how-to along with providing additional resources for various versions I’ve seen on the web.
So here is what I did:
I used one 1.5″ 10 Ft. PVC pipe purchased from Home Depot cost was around $4.00 for one pipe. I was able to get 20 candles out of this 10ft. pipe. Sizes ranged from tallest 9″ to smallest of 3″ (obviously stagger your heights). Cutting these were more of a pain than I thought. I first tried with a hand saw which was major arm labor. Than I cheated and cut them on a miter saw, which proved easiest for me and kept the cuts straight.
The PVC has a red logo and code markings down one side of the pipe. I highly recommend sanding the paint/stain with a fine grit sand paper. I tried nail polish remover, however it was a non acetone remover and really didn’t work all that well. An acietone remover or paint thinner may work better than sanding (you can decide). Reason: once you spray paint them the red paint runs like crazy and will require multiple coats (more of a pain and added cost in the long run)
I purchase 2 cans of Great Stuff foam – used 1½ cans for all 20 candles so figure approximately $4.00 a can.
After all candles were cut, I tilted them on their sides and sprayed foam around one of the open ends. Started foam contact about 2″ to 3″ on inner diameter of PVC. Slowly spinning the candle clockwise keeping nozzle/foam contact on the inner wall. I gradually worked foam to the cut edge. Foam begins to expand really fast (try not to touch with your hands – pretty sticky). By time you finish adding foam to the last candle you should be able to sit all candles upright.
Don’t worry if foam expands over the top edge. You will trim that later.
The lower half of the candle will be completely hollow (this is ok).
Total time for foam set-up. Let’s say wait at least 2 to 3 hours minimum. After the foam is completely set, I used a mini hand saw and cut excess foam flush with the top of the PVC pipe.
The foam is going to be your base/holder for your tea light candle. I placed a tea light candle in the center of foam using an x-acto knife, I traced the tea light out in the foam. Using a combination of the x-acto knife and my fingers, I pulled the foam center out (hole depth equal to tea light height). Using my glue gun, I began applying glue around the cut edge allowing glue to run naturally down from the top of the candle. I recommend allowing your glue gun to sit for a few minutes in between each application (especially since you tend to run through the hot glue residing in the gun pretty fast). The hotter the glue the longer natural looking run tracks you get . Keep adding layers of glue until you are happy. Make sure you smooth a thin layer of glue on the foam around the tea light opening. This hides the foam on the top giving a more natural candle look once tea light is in place.
I gave each candle 2 coats of a matte white spray paint and they were done.
SKULL PLAY
I decided to test a candle holder idea I had. I cut a circle in the top of an extra foam skull and added moss for a a cool skull candle. I think he’ll look great on my side table next to my spell book.
Other Great Resources for PVC Flicker Candles
Outdoor Flicker Candles by Terra PVC Candles by itHurt PVC Candles by djchrisb HalloweenForum by jimmyzdc
Happy Hauntings